The Middle Ground Challenge: Why Brands & Cocktail Culture Can't Scale Without Second-Division Bars
Between trophy bars and neighborhood pubs lies the missing link that determines whether cocktail culture thrives or fades. Francois Monti and Federico Riezzo reveal why second-division venues matter more than prestige lists.
The cocktail industry faces a paradox. More bars than ever claim to serve craft cocktails, yet the gap between world-class venues and everyday drinking spots keeps widening. Between the Instagram-worthy serves at 50 Best bars and the three-ice-cube Aperol Spritz at your local cafe exists a missing middle ground that determines whether cocktail culture becomes mainstream or remains niche.
The Second Division Determines Market Health
We explored how a city's cocktail scene gets measured not by its trophy bars but by what Francois calls the second division.
These are venues happy to make excellent Negronis and proper Martinis without competing for awards or lists. They serve neighborhood regulars who want a well-made drink without theatrics or intimidation.
Francois witnessed this firsthand in Madrid twelve years ago when the city's three or four top bars closed within months for different reasons. The scene collapsed to nothing because no middle layer existed to sustain cocktail culture.
Today, Madrid thrives because dozens of second-division bars cater to locals rather than tourists, creating consistent demand that survives beyond any single venue's success or failure.
Federico experienced the opposite problem in Rome, visiting what should have been a top-tier cocktail bar. Despite the technical prowess on display, the bartenders remained aloof and disengaged. No one asked questions or built connections.
The drinks themselves felt mechanical rather than hospitable. Without that middle ground between technical excellence and genuine service, even skilled venues fail to build the loyalty that sustains markets.
The maturity of any cocktail scene reveals itself in this second division. Cities without it experience boom-and-bust cycles driven by trends rather than genuine consumer adoption.
Brands attempting to scale in these markets often find themselves dependent on a handful of accounts rather than on a stable network that comes from widespread quality presence.
If the above resonates, it's because you've lived it.
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